Construction work continues outside the Gorki Plaza East hotel just days before the Olympics are to begin.
ADLER, Russia – The late, great Rodney Dangerfield used to tell a joke about staying in a hotel so cheap, "they stole my towel."
It's a classic, at least until
you walk into a "hotel room" here at the Winter Olympics, see it has two
beds … and just one pillow … and no light bulbs … and no shower curtain
… and cold water only … and a door that can't close … and, well, truth
be told, you're just happy there isn't a stray dog curled up in the
corner.
One of the great things about the Olympics is how the entire world
comes together and immerses itself in the culture and way of life of the
host city. This is a global community. It's not supposed to be three
weeks of opulence and seven-star hotels – unless you're an IOC official
or LeBron James, of course. It's, hey, you're in China, you'll live a
little like the Chinese.Well, old Mother Russia has a treat for everyone.
You want a Soviet snapshot? How
about a brilliant testament to soulless central planning, federal
inefficiencies, widespread corruption and inexplicable architecture, such as the now famous double toilets?
This note was on the door of the bathroom in a media hotel room. (Yahoo Sports)
Besides, a lot of the construction here is beyond spectacular
and will play exceptionally well on global television broadcasts, which
is the point of the entire operation. It stands to reason the
competition facilities (which are what matter) will be fine. The Games
will go on.
The tourists will just have to
deal with it. Hopefully they'll see it as the comedy it is and not as an
unfair inconvenience. They have so far. On Tuesday, two days before the
2014 Winter Olympics are set to begin, people stood around and compared
war stories, leaning on gallows humor to explain, well, just about
everything.
To start, the word hotel means something different here apparently.On the list of say, hot water, a door capable of closing, a television, light bulbs, clean sheets, a properly hooked up toilet and one pillow per bed, any guest should make like the NBA Finals: take four of seven and pop some champagne. And bring light bulbs, they are so valuable on the black market you can trade one for a date with a Russian tennis player.
It isn't all bad. They do have a
lot of 24-hour bars here, so it's clear Russia's heart is in the right
place. And the people, mostly volunteers, are trying as earnestly as
possible. It's just clear there is little organization. That $8.7
billion highway up the mountain, more than the cost of the entire
Vancouver Games, looks nice. Plus it's sunny and in the 50s, which isn't
very wintery, but appreciated nonetheless.
There is a general, if unproven, feeling that Vladimir Putin's
government flashed a lot of bribe money seven years ago and got enough
IOC members to decide it would be a good idea to stage the Winter Games
here in a tropical former expanse of swampland of such low prestige that
even the Russians aren't even fond of claiming it. (These are the
"Sochi Games" even if Sochi is a 45-minute drive away. Poor Adler is the
black sheep of the Black Sea.)One of the other prime contenders was Salzburg, Austria. It's home to Mozart, the Sound of Music, breathtaking beauty and centuries-old infrastructure. In other words, exactly what the Winter Olympics are supposed to look like.
Adler/Sochi won of course, even if it had yet to be constructed, much like the alpine facilities a couple of hours commute east of here.
There is no documented exposé of IOC payoffs. However, you could win a jury trial just by asking how anyone of even moderate intellect could possibly have thought this would be a better idea than Salzburg. There's no way. So they had better been getting something under the table.
There is something joyous for all
about watching a strongman like Putin spend $51 billion constructing an
Olympics to show off his modern and efficient country and thus far
failing miserably.
There is plenty of sterile,
cookie-cutter construction, buildings identified with numbers upon
numbers – come on by Omega 12 15-5-355 – utterly strange designs and
grounds that lack not only minimal landscaping but a startling number of
man hole covers.
Then there are the dogs; lots and lots of dogs – although less by the day.
A company has been hired to cull the herd, which may involve shooting
and poisoning them, or maybe something more gentle. The Russians are
claiming the latter, but when the guy who owns the company hired for the
job calls the dogs "biological trash" on ABC, they don't sound too
convincing.
Still, this is all pretty entertaining – unless you are a dog, of course.
The Canadian hockey team is reportedly going to sleep three to a room
– all on small beds. They are still laying bricks in the street. The
opening of the Gorki Grand Hotel – the word "grand" means something
different here also – is postponed. One of the Swissotels isn't
bothering to open. Other hotels are "mostly done," as one maintenance
person said, which is like saying Peyton Manning mostly won the Super
Bowl on Sunday.
Or maybe you don't consider a door an essential item for a hotel room. Damn Westerners.
There is a lot still not done
here and that has to humiliate Putin. It's one thing to dole out $51
billion to host the Olympics – more than any country has ever spent,
including China which spent $44 billion to host the Summer Games in
2008. It's another to do it and not be ready. No one even blinks at
corruption here. Inefficiency is an embarrassment.
The most oft-cited culprit for the delays is the "rain." Apparently it's been pouring here for seven years.
Right now everyone is laughing at Russia. From the photos going viral
around the world to the snickering about an overambitious construction
project falling short to the likelihood that posing in double toilet
stalls will become the Sochi version of planking or Tebowing.
The only bright side for Putin is no one is talking about gay rights anymore. Or terrorism. Yet.
Meanwhile, the smell of saw dust
fills the air and construction crews try to slap the entire thing
together as more and more planes unload at the airport, more and more
visitors arriving to find this wonder world of ridiculousness.
This is Sochi. Or Adler. Or
Putin's comedy act. Or someplace. It's certainly not Salzburg. It is
where Rodney's old joke became reality.
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